Wild Wild in West Africa: Senegal Adventures

A Legend and An Eco Lodge

“Here, you can peel this”, said Khady, as she handed me a basket of garlic bulbs. We had just arrived at Little Baobab, an eco-lodge powered by solar energy in the remote village of Abene along the southern coast of Senegal. Khady runs the show at the lodge with help from her brothers and sisters. Her husband, Simon passed away two years ago. He was quite a legend. From building the eco-lodge to cultivating a mango plantation nearby, he not only created a means of livelihood for the local village folk, but also put Abene on the map for travelers looking for an immersive experience of rural Africa.

It was the fourth day of our road trip across West Africa starting in Senegal. It had been a sensory whirlwind of sights and experiences. Some in the group started out on their scooters two days ago. We chose to follow on our comfortable 30-seat bus. Senegal has a vast network of paved roads across its rolling sandy plains and foothills. More importantly, the country has steady 3G/4G mobile connectivity even in remote locations. We picked up local SIM cards with 15 GB data at Dakar airport arrivals for as low as 15 Euros before we hit the road.

Senegal Up Close

Over three days, we had driven nearly 400km. We spent one night at a beach resort fringed with mangroves. We watched the sunrise on our kayak in Keur Saloum, walked with lions and spotted giraffes at the Fathala Wildlife Reserve in Toubouta. On day four, we crossed over to The Gambia in a passenger and car ferry. We danced the night away in a Lebanese-owned nightclub in the SeneGambia strip. All along, we had sampled some rich variety of Senegalese seafood that certainly did not disappoint, fried or grilled.

Senegal was a French colony and I was falling in love with the unmistakable French influence that has added a rich and contrasting flair to the local food, language and culture.

Now at the eco-lodge, we gathered around Khady’s kitchen, taking in the spicy aromas after a long day on the road. The drummers were due to arrive to teach us some basic drumming skills. Meanwhile, Khady’s little boy, Alfie chased dogs in the garden. He bear-hugged cats and occasionally swung a squealing pup by its tail.

Family and friends gathered for the night. A delicious home cooked meal of fish grilled to perfection, vinaigrettes, sautéed onions and French fries left us craving for more. An intense dance performance followed dinner with unmatched enthusiasm. African beats filled the air with an energy and mood that was uplifting and mesmerizing in equal measures. Khady prepped her family home and a few more guest rooms to give us the perfect home-stay experience.

Borderless Crossing into Guinea Bissau

Over the next few days of our road trip, we would make our way to Senegal’s southernmost point, Cap Skirring, and cross over into Guinea Bissau on the beach without borders. We would meet the animist King Sibiloumbai Diédhiou of Diola and ask him his views on Donald Trump and his politics. We would visit cashew plantations during the day and roast marshmallows around a bonfire through the night. On our last night, we would board a 20-hour cruise from Ziguinchor to Dakar and watch a candyfloss sunset along the horizon of the vast Atlantic Ocean.

Starry Thoughts

But for now, as I stood outside Khady’s family home, I reveled under the stars and planets shimmering across the bright African sky. I could hear faint hisses in the tall grass nearby and crickets chirping aloud on the trees at a distance. My head filled with thoughts of a feared and forgotten West Africa. The lesser known life and tribulations of a people who have seen the glorious past of the largest, most influential African kingdom, and faced slave trade by the Dutch, the French and the English soon after.

My heart filled with contentment. I thanked every star in the sky that had aligned to bring me here, thousands of miles away from the comfort of my jaded perceptions and safe reality. I had found the courage to fight the demons of my ignorance, not to mention to get my yellow fever and typhoid shots. Against mom’s wish, I had made my way to one of the most dangerous regions in the world. And landed up here in the warmth of Khady’s humble abode, my safe cocoon for one more night in the unknown.

Visa and Flight Matters

My Indian passport was happy that it didn’t need a visa to Senegal. The Gambia is another story. Indians and most other nationalities need a visa to The Gambia. The Consulate in Abu Dhabi is not easily reachable over the phone. Even so, the visa process is fairly straight forward for seasonal travelers with weak travel documents. It took a day to get a multiple visa stamped.

I flew on Emirates from Dubai to Dakar. It’s more or less an 8-9 hours flight time each way with a short layover in Conakry.

Postcard Status

Received the postcard nearly three weeks after coming back to Dubai. Beautiful messages from a wonderful crew and with memories for a lifetime.

Travel Date: November 2019

*These are first-hand experiences, findings , views or opinions , which are purely my own. They are not paid for or promoted content.